How Much Developer To Use With 2 Oz Color

Choosing the Correct Programmer Strength & Getting the Mix Correct Are Really Important For the Final Color Upshot.

Bullet-Signal Summary - Getting your Developer Employ Right

The rules for programmer choice with Ugly Duckling colors

Utilize 10 Vol for level on level-on-level coloring and going darker.

Use 20 Vol for 1-2 levels lift, for toning blonde hair and for greyness hair coverage.

Utilize 30 Vol for 2-3 levels lift

Use 40 Vol for three levels elevator and more than.

The recommended mix for our hair colour is 1+i

The rules for programmer option with Ugly Duckling bleaches

Utilise 20 Vol for up to 3 levels lift and for the regrowth area (hair processes faster there because of the heat from the scalp)

Utilise 30 Vol for whatever elevator higher than 3 levels lift.

Do not apply forty Vol with Ugly Duckling bleaches. Information technology is not required, as our bleaches lift very fast.

The recommended mix for our bleaches 1+2

The rules for developer choice with Ugly Duckling cream and liquid toners, & with high lift colors

Utilise 20 Vol for Ugly Duckling cream toners and loftier lift colors (annihilation get-go with 100).

The recommended mix is 1+two.

Apply seven, 10 or 20 Vol for Ugly Duckling liquid ammonia-gratis toners co-ordinate to lift required.

The recommended mix for liquid toners (Blondify) is 1+i.

HOW TO MIX BLEACH & COLOR WITH DEVELOPER - Sentry VIDEO:

This is a 2 step technique: bleach on the regrowth followed past a blonde colour awarding.
Watch this video to the end: y'all volition see both a bleach mix (Bright Blonde bluish bleach) as well equally a color mix (ten.2 Extra Light Cool Blonde)
Both mixes are in line with what we at Ugly Duckling Color recommend: i:2 for the bleach and 1:ane for the color.
Our colorist, Elona Taki, is an experienced colorist and she is pouring in her developer by sight.
Withal, we would suggest if you are new to coloring that you do non pour by sight.
Employ mixing bowls or a weighing calibration for all-time results.

Hair by Elona Taki.

1. What does the Developer exercise to the pilus?

Hair Programmer is essentially hydrogen peroxide formulated inside a foam base of operations in order to make it more corrective and gentle for the pilus and the scalp.

Programmer activates the hair color and bleach.

Information technology helps the color or bleach open up upwardly the outer layer of the hair (the cuticle, in other words) and allows the mix to penetrate the hair shaft.

Pilus developer is typically formulated in dissimilar strengths, from 5 Vol and 7 Vol all the fashion to 40 Vol.

The developer strength refers to the oxidizing potential of the programmer, or how much hydrogen peroxide it contains.

two. What are the ordinarily used Programmer Strengths?

The higher the concentration of hydrogen peroxide, the more "lift" you lot are going to get with your developer.

The most commonly used strengths are as follows:

10 Volume Developer, containing 3% hydrogen peroxide is used for no-lift hair colour, tone-on-tone and tone-down applications.

20 Book Developer, containing 6% hydrogen peroxide is the programmer strength the most widely used past colorists in salons.

Information technology will lift the pilus by one or two levels, allowing color or bleach to penetrate in and do its work.

Ugly Duckling recommends that y'all use this strength for almost permanent color applications involving one-3 levels lift.

We also recommend that y'all utilise this for blonde toning applications as well as for greyness hair coverage.

We likewise recommend that you use 20 Vol when doing bleach applications virtually the root surface area or scalp.

Hair here processes extremely fast and you should not use a stronger programmer strength here.

30 Volume Developer, containing ix% hydrogen peroxide is the one to utilise when you are using high lift color or bleach on the lengths and you are going for lifts of iii levels and more than.

40 Volume Developer, containing 12% hydrogen peroxide, should only exist used when faced with truly stubborn hair situations and that too on the lengths only - never e'er on the scalp. It has extremely potent lifting power, just because it opens up the hair cuticle and so much, it can damage the hair cuticle unnecessarily.

Sometimes stylists want to use this with pilus bleach in club to get their clients very very blonde - for case, to lift it by seven or 8 levels. We don't recommend you do this when using Ugly Duckling bleaches, as they have been formulated to lift very well with twenty and 30 Vol programmer forcefulness merely.

iii. And so How exercise I Know Which Programmer Force I Should Use?

First, refer to the hair color chart below to effigy out where your client'due south pilus is currently.

Your aim is to requite a number to your current hair color level.

Use the left side of the chart below to effigy out what level your natural hair colour (virgin hair) is on a scale of 1-x.

If y'all accept lengths which have been previously bleached or colored, yous tin can use the correct side instead.

So for instance if at that place is orange in your pilus, you are at level 5 Light Brown.

If there is a lot of yellow/orange, you are somewhere between level half-dozen and level 7.

If y'all see only xanthous, you are at level 8 or lighter.

Next, figure out what level you are aiming for.

Use the chart below to guide you.

If, for instance y'all are going for a true blonde color, the answer would be either 9 or 10.

If you are going for a dark or medium blonde color, that means you are going for a level half dozen-viii.

If you lot are going for any warm vibrant fashion color, red or pink, for example, y'all will demand to have the hair to level vii minimum.

And if you are going for whatsoever cold way color, blue, grey or violet, for instance, you will need to take the hair to level ix minimum.

Finally, subtract the two numbers to figure out the level elevator required.

So let's say your regrowth is level 5 and yous are trying to have that hair blonde.

That would mean that yous demand to lift information technology by 10-five, in other words, by 5 levels. So in this case you would need to apply bleach with 20 Book, followed by a colour likewise with twenty Book.

Make sure y'all do this adding for every role of your hair, because your regrowth could be one level and your previously colored lengths could be another.

four. Do I need to apply the same make of developer as my color or bleach?

Non necessarily. As long every bit the developer is a foam based one and it is fresh, it will work well on any brand of color or programmer.

What is important, nonetheless, is that you choose the right strength of developer and follow the correct mix instructions.

These may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.

If you are using Ugly Duckling colors, toners and bleaches, follow the instructions given hither and you will go excellent results.

five. How exercise I mix 20 Vol developer with hair colour?

Mix developer and color in a plastic mixing bowl.

Experienced colorists tin become the programmer mix right past just pouring in & looking at the mix - but we don't recommend this!!

Use a weighing scale or the markers on the basin to get the mix ratio correct.

Keep stirring or using a whisk until you get a totally cream shine paste.

Ugly Duckling colors take been designed to give very good product saturation but you lot practise need to get the mix right.

This is what a mix of Ugly Duckling colour and developer should await like:

Hair Color & Developer Mix:

6. How practice I mix 20 Vol developer with bleach?

Mix using a weighing scale or the markers on the plastic bowl.

If yous are using the Ugly Duckling bleach scoop, you can use the same scoop to measure out the programmer.

The Ugly Duckling scoop is 1 oz. For every scoop of bleach you would need ii scoops of programmer.

This is what a mix of Ugly Duckling bleach and developer should look like:

Brilliant Blonde Blue Bleach & Developer mix

Vivid Blondexx Bond Protect Bleach & Developer Mix:

seven. What happens if yous apply programmer by itself?

Yous will manage to open the cuticle and you will get some of the hair's natural melanin to come up out.

So you lot will lighten the hair equally a result to some degree. But the color result will be very imperfect and we don't recommend it.

You lot will but end up needing to colour once again to get it right and the multiple applications of developer volition do unnecessary damage to your customer's hair.

eight. Why apply 20 Vol for Toning?

Toning is level on level, so 10 Vol, Correct?

Umm...not and then fast!! Not if the hair has been incorrectly pre-lightened.

See the pictures below:

Equally you tin come across, the hair is really very brassy actually dark blonde in some places.

Equally a hairdresser you should actually be using bleach to lift upward the dark parts first. That would exist the correct affair to practise.

Yous could instead use Ugly Duckling's Intense Pearl Blonde toner with 20 Vol & that would work as well, as Ugly Duckling's intense toners practice take lift.

What would non work is to tone with 10 Vol on this type of hair.

9. Why Employ 20 Vol Developer for Greyness Pilus Coverage?

So when I am doing grey pilus coverage, that's level-on-level. So I utilise 10 Vol, Right?
Umm...in one case once more...non so fast!
If you have 25% grey pilus or less than 10 Vol will be OK.
But once once again, the fact that 10 Vol developer does not penetrate deeply into the pilus cuticle will penalise your cease result.
For more than than 25% grey hair, we recommend 20 Vol rather than 10 Vol.
You will be softening the cortex more and depositing color pigments deeper, not only coating the outside.
The hair color will also last longer that way.

Featured Products

Purple Duo Small

$60.00 / $twoscore.00

Intense Pearl Blonde Toner

$12.00

Intense Argent Blonde Toner

$12.00

ten. How Much Developer Should I Use for Ugly Duckling Colour, Toner & Bleach?

The recommended mix ratio for Ugly Duckling Color is 1 part color to one function developer for most of our colors.
The recommended mix ratio for Ugly Duckling Toners (Intense Pearl Blonde, Intense Silver Blonde, Pearl Blonde Toner, Silver Blonde Toner) is 1 part color to two parts developer.
The recommended mix For Ugly Ducking High Elevator Colors (anything start with the number 100) is likewise ane part color to 2 parts developer.
The recommended mix for Ugly Duckling Bleach (Bright Blonde), is 1 part Brilliant Blonde to 2 parts developer.

11. If I use More than Programmer Will I Go More Elevator?

No, it does non work similar that.
Whatever strength you lot use, the mix should always stay the aforementioned.
People sometimes think they can put in more than developer to achieve greater lift. Not true.
You lot can add together in a little more than developer if you want a runnier mix in order to work fast.
You tin can also add in a trivial less developer. a thicker mix in order to do balayage techniques.
Both these cases are explained more than fully later on on.
Just in general, if your hair is too dark and you desire to lift a lot, you need to suit the developer strength as above, not the mix.
If that does not requite you lot the lift you are looking for, the answer is to utilise high lift colour or bleach, non add in more developer!

12. Does More Developer Make the Bleach Mixture Stronger?

No, it volition not do that. All bleaches are designed with a sure mix in mind.
Ugly Duckling bleaches function very well with a one:2 mix and will give you the lift that you need.
For the root expanse and for 1-two level lifts, employ 20 Vol developer and in near cases that should be perfect.
For higher lifts, utilize thirty Vol programmer. Re-apply if necessary if the hair is very nighttime.
With Ugly Duckling bleaches you should never accept to utilize xl Vol programmer & nosotros don't recommend it.

Ugly Duckling Bright Blonde mixed with xxx Vol developer in a 1:ii mix.
This adequately runny mix will exist piece of cake to apply, requite y'all good product saturation & will enable y'all to work fast.

13. What Happens If I Put Too Much Developer In The Dye?

Your mix will be more than wet, & more runny.
If it is way too runny, y'all may end up lightening the hair, but not depositing enough color. It volition end upwardly thinner, flatter and last less long.

xiv. What Happens If I Put Likewise Little Developer in The Dye?

Your mix volition be likewise dry out, and y'all won't be able to saturate the hair properly with product and you may also get uneven and patchy color results.
You volition not be lifting out enough of the hair's natural melanin.
This will mean you may end up with darker hair than you wished for.

fifteen. Are There Any Cases Where it is a Good Idea to Deliberately Put in Actress Developer?

Putting in more developer will give yous a runnier solution.
This is helpful when yous want to saturate the hair (cover the pilus with product) really really well and evenly. You volition get a more than even colour consequence and you will tend to avoid patches.This is especially of import in full head applications.

A runnier solution will allow you lot to work fast. This may be an important factor when your customer'southward hair is long and yous desire to give all the hair the same processing time roots to ends.
Very ofttimes, skilful colorists tend to go with a runnier solution for the above reasons. Many of the artists who produce video tutorials for Ugly Duckling do in fact use adequately runny mixes (See below). Working fast is of grade very important in a salon, and it helps them achieve consequent results from root to ends.

Even when going with a runnier solution, aim at a maximum mix of i:1.v for Ugly Duckling Color and i:two.5 mix for Ugly Duckling Lighteners (Brilliant Blonde) and toners. Any more and you may be compromising colour results.

16. Are At that place Any Cases Where it is A Good Thought to Deliberately Put in As well Little Developer?

It will help if you want to do a balayage technique (gratuitous painting with dye brush) and you want to position the color accurately and not take whatsoever product dripping off the castor.
Balayage artists tend to piece of work with thicker color mixes. This helps avoid putting on also much product in one go and thus avoid visible lines of demarcation.
It will besides help if you are looking to practice greyness hair coverage and your customer has difficult to cover grayness pilus. You will get a darker colour result, only y'all will exist able to improve greyness hair coverage.
Even when going for a less runny solution, aim at a minimum mix of 1:0.eight for Ugly Duckling Color and 1:1.v mix for Ugly Duckling Lightener (Bright Blonde) and toners.

17. How Long Volition Programmer Keep?

You lot need to discard your developer bottle within 12 months of opening.
In any instance, in a busy hair salon developers will not final that long!
Care needs to be taken to always store developers (and indeed, color) in a absurd and if possible dark place where it is not exposed to sunlight.

18. Is programmer bleach?

No, the 2 have very split chemical properties.

Bleaches contain persulfates and are fabricated for stripping colour out of hair.

Call back of developers every bit activators. You need developer to activate the bleach.

Yous also need developer to activate pilus colour.

nineteen. Does developer harm the hair?

Excessive chemical processing damages the hair. When you have lightening or coloring or toning to exercise, do it one time and go information technology right.

That would be our motto.

USING DEVELOPER - OUR VERY LAST WORDS

Choose your programmer forcefulness according to how many levels you need to lift.

Don't endeavor to short-cut the coloring process by either using a higher developer strength than you should be using, or past pouring in more developer than y'all should exist using - nosotros guarantee y'all that that will not work!
If you need to lift by more iii levels, you will demand to use bleach or a loftier elevator color before you tone.
Apply 10 Vol for less than 25% grey coverage and for going darker.
For annihilation else 20 or 30 Vol should be the natural choice.
For Blondify liquid toners you have the flexibility of 7 Vol, 10 Vol and 20 Vol, But make sure that the pilus is well prelightened.
In general, Ugly Duckling products accept been made for stylists looking to take their clients' hair blonde and very blonde. Follow the coloring rules we take provided and y'all will excellent coloring results.

Featured Products

Purple Duo Small

$60.00 / $40.00

Intense Pearl Blonde Toner

$12.00

Intense Argent Blonde Toner

$12.00

Video of a Toner & Developer Mix

In this curt video, you can see the application of Intense Pearl Blonde Toner 100V with 20 Vol Developer.
The stylist, Ashley, has done a mix of 1 role toner to 2 parts programmer - which is what we recommend for toners.
It allows yous to work fast - and in this case, our model'southward pilus was super long and we needed to work fast.
The toner sat on our model's pilus for virtually twenty minutes in total.

Hair by Ashley Betancourt.

Watch Video of Ugly Duckling Hair Color 10.1b Color & Developer Awarding:

In this video, the stylist Brittney is applying ten.1b which is over again a color.
The mix here is i part colour to 1 part developer.
You tin can encounter the thickness of consistency that our stylist got with this mix.
The color was left to procedure the full 30 minutes in order to get the total richness and intensity of this very unusual blueish based ash blonde color.

Hair past Brittney Perez.

WATCH THIS VIDEO FOR A Lift FROM DARK Brownish TO Ane BLONDE IN ONE SESSION ONLY:

Hair by Ashley Betancourt, NY

Looking for your personalized guide to developer choice (including total recipe)? Then go here:

https://www.uglyducklingcolor.com/developer-selection